Looking down onto Scalloway<\/em><\/p>\n St Ninians Beach<\/em> Up near the early warning station on the northern tip of Unst<\/em><\/p>\n I got chatting to one of the ferry deckhands, he wanted to show me pictures of his own bike, a Moto Guzzi, as he scrolled through the pictures on his phone, looking for the perfect picture, he scrolled past the pictures of her indoors pointing at it, how I laughed!!<\/em><\/p>\n Every turn in the road affords a new view, bigger than the last, across inlets and islands. Staying in Scalloway we are pretty much in the centre of the island with easy access in all directions, its only ten minutes from west to east coasts!\u00a0 We head down to Sumburgh head on the southern tip of the island, this is supposed to be puffin central, but it must be their half day, not one in sight.<\/p>\n Shetland provides us with the only mechanical of the trip, a snapped kick start on Pete’s bike.\u00a0 We have already ridden past the islands only bike shop \/ garage at Burra and surmise its the place to go in the morning.<\/p>\n Steve, the owner of Burra Motor Repairs is a bike nut and as helpful as can be.\u00a0 After a couple of cups of tea and a general chit chat about all things old skool we’re sorted with a kick start of a Chinese field bike, it being the same spline pattern as a 1971 T500.\u00a0 A run of weld to lock the folding lever in place and the job is good for the rest of the trip.\u00a0 We hoon round for the rest of the day returning to Steve’s for another cuppa and to drop off some beers – the international currency of the world<\/p>\n Arriving on Orkney at about 11pm, the rain of the late evening and early night has stopped and we ride off the boat to clear skies and damp roads.\u00a0 Heading south we cross a couple of the causeways and bivvy out at Scappa flow under the stars.\u00a0 Waking as the sun breaks over\u00a0 the horizon the day promises fine weather and does not disappoint.<\/p>\n This evening we are back at John’s at Evie on the north of the island, a great host we are revisiting after our NC trip two years earlier.\u00a0 John has made some improvements to his accommodation, most notably a small bar, he plies us with beers and we swap stories from over the years, skilfully managing to avoid too much of an argument with the other guests from France, who want to hug trees just a little too much.<\/p>\n Kitchener’s tower on the west of the island was built by the locals after Lord Kitchener was lost at sea with 732 other in 1916 when their ship hit a mine just a\u00a0 mile and a half off shore, only 12 survived.<\/p>\n Back on the mainland we ride into worsening weather and crazier sheep, with two near misses as the gloom increases.\u00a0 Arriving at Durness we have twenty minutes to get the tents pitched in increasing winds, stow our gear and leg it to the bar to get fed and watered.\u00a0 Pete makes it in the nick of time and convinces the staff to feed us even though we are two minutes late.<\/p>\n The wind picks up through the night, the tail end of some hurricane that has raced across the Atlantic and southern Scotland.\u00a0 Early morning and some other bikes are heading out, eastwards, I don’t envy them on narrow roads and gusting winds.\u00a0 Our ride the evening before had been entertaining enough and winds speed has only increased over the hours.<\/p>\n The combination of A836 and A838 has to be one of the best rides in the country.\u00a0 I would favour riding eats to west, even in the rain and mist the evening its a classic and at this time of day, little traffic, perhaps half a dozen cars in 70 or so miles.<\/p>\n We spend the day on the beach and in the bar, the good alternative to riding when the weather is like it is.\u00a0 Sunday dawns clear with calm conditions and we take our time riding to Ullapool.\u00a0 The west coast is breath taking.\u00a0 Pete has researched\u00a0 small campsite at Altandhu.\u00a0 Even after a day of riding through stunning scenery the views as we drop down the hill to the village stop me in my tracks.\u00a0 We are soon pitched up and sinking the beers as the sun dips below the horizon marking the end of another day of perfect riding.<\/p>\n The ride to breakfast takes some beating, an hour through the highlands to Ullapool, fed and watered we are soon steaming out to the Hebrides across Loch Broom.\u00a0 The isle of Lewis is something of a disappointment compared to what we have seen already, although as we head onto Harris the next day the scales are balanced again as the roads rise and fall with the mountains and the ride to another ferry at Leverburgh.\u00a0 The ride is wet and windy but despite the conditions we get a feel for the scenery, wit golden sand beaches aplenty.<\/p>\n The relatively calm crossing belies what’s ahead on North Uist.\u00a0 Wind buffets us across the roads, disconcerting when the roads are narrow with no verges, just drops to either side to marshy wetlands.\u00a0 It’s fair to say we are not seeing these islands at their best.\u00a0 We leave South Uist the following morning, the ride to Lochboisdale offering the last of the empty roads we have grown so used to over the miles so far.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/itsonlyahill.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/IMG_2936.jpg\")
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