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Jan
01

The Grand Canyon of the Stikine

At 00.02 on the morning of the 17th of September 2011 I received a text from Daz Clarkson, having just completed one of his life ambitions, the Stikine, hats off to him!

here's his first thoughts committed to laptop……….

 

"Haunted shadows awake me, a serpent cuts the land.  Burning with each beat of my heart.  Cold sweats and startled sleep once more.  Wounded I had ached to dance to its song since I first had unstable beginnings in kayaking.  As challenges came and went the Stikine sat proud, a giant into my pantomime of exploration.

11 Sept, a sleepless flight to Vancouver and a drive to the north country, the magnet pulled faster and faster.  12th Sept as darkness fell-tired.  The night offered promises in the morning light.

Confused conversations, like the drunkards plea, had drawn six together.  We had one common thread, the morning light brought a clear cloudless sky.  Packed and loaded we paddled down to the closing wall.  Gray vaulted doors with shimmering threads, the Grand Canyon of the Stikine.

Rapids came and went, with each wave friendships grew.  The pull to put on had sacrificed my body clock.  portages were difficult and eddies missed.  My body hampered with fatigue.  But this band of brothers became solid.

Three days the canyon all housed in isolated grandeur let us pass.  Emotions the mental landscape were pushed and pulled then set free in a world of boundless possibilities.

Framed in the walls, no hike out, no portage you stare, the heart beating into the gut.  All snarls and barks.  All the demons of the heart.  your blades try to power through the water, slices of chance form and disappear.  Head down you commit.  Roll the dice, load the gun, dance with the reaper but it means more than this.

Small but critical, a 5 ft gap ejects you from the canyon, the worst is behind you but you know more is to come.

Gravel beaches and first nation fishermen salute its passing.  But the flame is still alight, its a place of magic and spells, of silence and noise.  Of passion and grace.  Of trust and chance.  The majesty and honour envelopes you.  I was numb both physically and mentally at the take out, no one tells you about this.

Without the unwritten bond, without the band of brothers.

The serpent could coil and thrash at any moment.  So its with respect that I take these memories and remember the path of the heart.

Its not about commercial gain, or funding.  Its not about what you kayak, you ride or what paddle you have.  Its not even about the moves you make.  Its about much, much more.  its about the words that cannot be said, the truth that shines in the darkest hours and the salute to the river.

For this I thank you all, my friends.  For the river, a thank you is not enough – a lotus to you – my teacher"

Oct
01

Le Mans

With Le Mans moving from its usual springtime slot in the calendar to September, Les sets his sights on another trip, some 15 years after his last visit, his business, Short Stop Tyres ( 01704 573022 ) keeps him busy early in the year fitting tyres and fettling bikes for the summer.

I could hardly let the lad travel alone now could I?  The bikes racing over the weekend may well have changed but we're going old school on air cooled Kawasaki's.  Ferry's booked, tickets bought we both just need some shake down miles before we head off, I finish running in a 1075 kit on the way down and Les more than doubling his miles on the trip down to Portsmouth.

The roads have changed a bit, the new autoroute from Caen offers the speedy option with the old roads the traditional French villages, albeit with some new ring roads thrown in.  The cafe with round windows in Alencon, a traditional stopping point for us remains unchanged with eye ball popping coffee served up.

There's been a few changes down at the circuit too, no cars are allowed into the traditional camping areas in an effort to cut down on thefts and too much ghia being taken in, park and walk being the only option for 4 wheels.  The bikes are stickered up with corresponding helmet numbers, alcohol restrictions are in place with only two litres of beer or wine per person allowed and no bottles, time to get creative!

Tents pitched, darkness falls and its Thursday night practice, Endurance racing rocks.  As we watch practice the campsite contiues to fill and the noise levels increase as exhaust cans are removed and the traditional battle rages across the campsites of who can rev the knackers of their bike the most, brilliant!  The racers may well test their own and the bikes endurance over 24 hours but the paying punters equal their feats with late nights, little sleep all fuelled by alcohol with precious little sign of the restrictions having any effect!

 

 

5 hours in and night begins to fall and the real racing starts, who can lap at times similiar to the daylight hours (low 1,40s, under 1,40 is proper quick) and who will be caught napping in the pits in the early hours? The factory teams have 20 mechanics, working in shifts, the amateur teams just a little more than one man and his dog.  Team catering or nipping out to the nearest Frite and dog stand?

 

Races can be won and lost in the pits, Endurance isn't about the fastest bike and rider, more the team and how well it works together, the bike, how long the fuel and tyres last, how quickly the team can change wheels, brake pads and re fuel.

At 7am, Kawasaki had been in the pits for 15m10s, Suzuki, 13m16s, BMW 39m52s

At 8.20am, 9 seconds separate 1 and 2, by the end, its one lap, Kawasaki with 834 tours and Suzuki with 833.

Team managers watch the monitors constantly, looking for weaknesses in the opposition working on their strategy, which rider has to go out next, have they got a buffer to rest the faster riders or do they need to tell the incoming rider that he's off out again, back to back sessions, the riders, well there's three of them each with their strengths and their weaknesses.

Who can be relied on not to get carried away and bin it on the first lap, who is faster at night when perhaps consitency counts more that outright speed.  The riders stay in their leathers for 30 minutes after their session and must be ready 30 minutes before, in case of any problems, rest? I dont think so!

 

 With the mayhem on the circuit keeping most occupied, Status Quo provide some of their own mayhem!  Can it really be them? I saw them on their End of the Road Tour in 1984, their last ever gig at Milton Keynes Bowl!!

The Portsmouth boys create their own entertainment, one of their number waking to find his world is considerably smaller than when he went to sleep!

Not the winner but happy to finish the race

Kawasaki and Suzuki were nip and tuck throughout with Kawasaki coming out on top.

Sep
14

Iceland

by Jason,

With their Italy trip down the pan due to this years low water levels in Val Sesia, the boys set their sights on the more obscure and further north, just south of the arctic circle, Iceland.

5 things to know:

1. However long you go for, it won't be long enough. Ten days for us, make sure you take good footwear – you'll do alot of walking, inspecting, searching for falls, teased by nature until eventually it pays off.

2. Get in touch with Mark Hirst at http://www.riverrafting.is/

3. You need a 4×4 – we broke our heavily overloaded 7 seater 2 wheel drive, on day one, we got lucky as the only replacement vehicle was a 4×4, it made the trip so much easier as the majority of the roads are single track gravel.

4. Wild Camping is illegal in the national park, we wild camped – a lot! Caught once with a fine to pay as a result!  Food was variations of pasta and rice, supplimented by any peppers onions, meat, anything that could be bought cheap.  Alcohol is virtually impossible to buy and is apparently expensive.

5. It doesn't get dark which takes some getting used to, messes with your body clock, it also turns out to be a bit of a luxury too, as you don't run out of daylight when inspecting, we ran our first fall at 5 in the morning after landing and driving straight to Faxifoss a couple of hours from the airport.

 

 Cast; in no particular order, Jason, Sam, Matty, Dean and Miles

Words by Jason, pictures by Sam and Matty.

Aug
24

Trail Addiction………………….

 One year on and we are back for some more downhill action, straight onto the lobster pots for a day on the trails

The Furnicular – route to all trails down.

 

 

 The view looking out from the bar…..

and the view looking into the bar

 

 

 We're glad this boy doesn't ride a downhill bike, he'd be a danger to himself, if not us!! the boy has skills he doesnt know how to use yet, sell the carbon thing and get something with some beef boy!

 

 

 

 Lower than a snake's belly in a wagon rut!

 

 

Trails of the week for me included poundstretcher into double header, killer, endless, technical, steep, exposed, rooty, rock gardened, smooshy, buff, loamy, arm pumping singletrack and not a gate in sight! Perfect.

 

Jul
06

D952

Verdon Gorge

It's late evening, warm, dark and I am behind the wheel of Pete's Skoda following two other cars along the D952.  It takes forty five minutes to drive the distance we have just paddled that took the same time plus eight hours.  I don't want to get left behind, if only because the lead car has freshly baked pizzas, bought from the roadside van in the village of La Palud sur Verdon.

The Grand Canyon of Europe, the Gorge de Verdon in the Alpes de Haute Provence region of France.  Hewn through the limestone plateau, the run starts just outside Castellane and ends when the river spits you out into the man made lake of Saint Croix du Verdon.

The water that created this natural wonder no longer flows at the unrestrained levels that led to the rock sculptures worn through years of erosion, now restricted to a compensation flow and releases by the French power company EDF after a series of dams were built to harness the waters.  Stuart Woodward helpfully updated UKRGB and we established there was a release of thirteen cumecs on Friday 1st July, low but ideal for a self led group.

The difficulty of this river does not isolate itself to the rapids that attract us, more the environment in which they lie.  The guidebook does an excellent job of informing you of what to expect but only committing yourself to the trip will give you an insight into what actually lies between the entrance and exit, a land that time forgot, a Hollywood film set, inhabited by creatures of your imagination or the CGI designer.

Packing our boats, we add water, food, headtorches, shelters, slings, karabiners to what we already carry and a guidebook, there is far too much to commit to memory.

At just after 11o'clock we are a little later on the water than we would have liked, we know a long day is ahead of us and thats without any drams or swims.  The sun beats down from an unbroken blue sky, rarely reaching the deeper confines of the gorge.  As we drift towards the first rapid the walls soon close in and present us with our first short portage, a choke of trees from winter floods.  One of the girls, about to answer the call of nature luckily looks up before assuming the position, to find tourists waving from an inspection tunnel built by the power companies.

The river changes in character as it twists and turns through the canyon it has created.  At times open and wide with tree lined banks and beaches, closing in to sheer walls barely wider than your boat.  Don't crowd your lead, you just don't know what's beyond the next blind corner, this is eddy hopping at its best and most intense.  Maintaining line of sight is at times difficult and most of the time river signals are restricted to a nod, which as my granny used to say, " is as good as wink to a blind man".

A footbridge warns of 'LEstellie', the first rapid of note.  'Styx' leads you in, deceptively clam waters through a narrow gorge before disappearing into the gloom, a siphon river right, and undercut river left, a central chute providing the obvious line into a re circulating hole centre right – tricky!

The Verdon is a true adventure, you will need your climbing, caving, canyoning and portaging skills in addition to your boating experience.  A couple of portages are henious. 'Chaos de l'Imbut leaves the last man standing, balanced in the most precarious of positions with the stern of the boat wedged into a cleft in the rock, preparing to seal launch into airiated water bubbling up from the siphon upstream as the river disappears into the low light of what would appear to be a cave with an entrance no wider than your front door.

'Posting' your boat through a hole of the roof of the rock fall that created this cavern is a new experience for all of us, lowering boats on slings, scrambling through a gap or a measured jump into the water, pushing your boat ahead of you to the far bank before resuming the paddling we are more used to.  At this point the guidebook tells us there are still three hours to go!  The sun entering its final phase of the day, casting long shadows, turning rock outcrops warm pastel shades.

Reading the guidebook the following morning I can only agree with its conclusion that you need a small skilled group used to hauling their boats around and setting up safety.  Whilst the rapids in isolation may not be that difficult, where they are situated adds to their seriousness, boxed in, narrow, steep sided, overhung rock walls enclosing water, rapids, sumps, siphons, blind corners, tree hazards and portages all add to the day.  Perhaps a good indicator not to undereatimate this river, is the time it takes.

Is it worth it?

O yes! 

 

 Entering the Couloir Samson

 

 

 

 Orn in the second part of l'Estelle

Slowly, slowly, eddy hopping down

Heading down the the "entrance to hell", Styx, the river is flowing right to left as Orn waits for the signal to drop down to the one boat eddy above a river centre hole, a siphon river right and an undercut river left – tricky

 Portaging around the entrance to Chaos de l'Imbut, a precarious seal launch follows into the narrowing canyon

Posting boats from Chaos de l'Imbut

Feb
19

Mont Jovet

Sat around the dinner table in the Goat Shed, the "standard" accomodation offered by Trail Addiction, luxurious by any, well my standards, the guides are trying to convince a bunch of us into forgoing a day of uplift in favour of pedalling uphill for 10K tomorrow.

The down more than compensates for the climb they say, endless killer singletrack, huge views, we're in.  Next morning instead of heading for the nearby lifts we load the bikes into the TA trailer and shuttle to our start, a steady away 20 minute climb under cloudless skies, all good so far.

 

A re group at the start of the first down, steady away doubletrack before the start of the singletrack, steep, exposed with a couple of hairpins that it's recommended to walk and for once the guides have not over egged the difficulty, the first switchbacks are steep, tight and a couple are just too dam risky to ride, brilliant!

 

 

 

 

Nearly at the bottom of an awesome descent, the gradient has lessened, the speed has increased and the smiles have widened, unfortuantley though this means the start of the climb, its bitching hot and I hate pedalling the patriot, it had better be worth it, as I recall last nights conversations!!

Some time later……………… big vistas!

 and the fun begins, heading down!

 

 

 

As we head into the trees, the trail just gets faster, off the brakes, on the brakes, its the forest moon of Endor, blasting through the trees, alternate switchbacks, pedalling hard, arms pumped, shoulders dropping in, looking ahead, later and later on the brakes, how long does this go on, more, more, more and then the inevitable happens, I feel the front break away, too much brake and the tyre looses grip, tucks under and its hello to air time, the bike remains mid track as I take my ticket to somewhere down the hill, the gradient eases the thud and I roll through the undergrowth, a quick dust down and head back to get the bike out of the way of the next rider, a quick survey of man and machine reveals only wounded pride on both parts! that was fun. 

The longer part of the ride is done, we stop, refill our camelbacks, Mansell tells us there's 3 sets of switchbacks coming up worthy of some respect, he can't remember or isnt telling whether they get easier or harder, whichever they are ahead somewhere.  My pea sized brain immediatley forgets the warnings and all too soon I am into a switchback, too fast, no time to formulate a plan, I drop in and out, clean, cool.

Now unlike the earlier crash I don't really recall what happened next, the second set of switchbacks and I am waaaay toooo fast, no time to scrub speed, I "see" the line, straight through and down, I can see my exit, I swear the line is there, even now, however!  This is going to hurt, surely.  I'm still clipped in, upside down, a few feet off the ground, this is happening very fast. I land first with the bike on top of me, all tangled up I then drop off the trail and start making progress down the hill, I manage to grab a tree branch, stop the slide, branch in one hand, patriot in the other.  I haul the bike over my head and on to the trail above.  I can't believe nothing hurts, dragging myself up and dusting myself down, a quick look round, no one saw a thing, brilliant! 

……………and its pretty much done, looking back to the last of the steeps, there's only one technical set of corners left to negotiate, only Ash, founder and trail guru of Trail Addiction has cleaned the remaining switchback, where are the photographs? I was too busy falling off to get the camera out, super steep, suber exposed, super loose and uber hard!

So is it worth taking a day off the lifts to take in this ride, you'd better believe it!  I have to rate this as one on THE rides I have done, two of the biggest stacks I have ever had, launching over the bars on both occasions, thankfully completley unscathed.

This is alpine singletrack at it's very best, riding simply doesn't get better than this. Trail Addiction pride themselves on lift assisted downhill and I note that their website this year features this ride and rightly so.  The Chilcotins are perhaps the only place I could place above in an order of merit but save the airfare and the float plane flight and here you are, the best singletrack you will probably ever ride!

Nov
23

A hard days night!

Head down, pedalling fast, riding into the wind, cinders crunch beneath our tyres, steel rails long since removed.

Eyes search for unseen fast approaching hazards, trail flat, black, snaking, disappearing into the darkness.  I recall from a previous ride that the trail has dropped down the hillside in one place, where?  I can't remember.

Lights pierce blackness, twisting, turning, darkness and shadows, moments to react, I chance a hand off the bars to re adjust my light, eyes focused ahead, trying not to look down.  This isn't the right trail, a missed turn, thankfully noticed before we had gone too far.

Ruts!  The trail splits, I take one, hoping that it doesn't veer off down the hillside into the wilds of the Yorkshire Moors, momentarily my wheels are either side of the rut, the bike crabs down the trail before the tracks converge.

Behind me I hear a cry, followed by a thud, then laughter, whoever it is has just hit mother earth, unhurt, only pride taken a bruising.  We stop, four lights streaming into the night.  Bike and rider reunited, reaching the head of the valley, turning, wind on our backs, the pace quickens.

We pick our way through bogs and sodden earth, mud beneath our tyres and feet, squelching, oozing, wheels used as depth probes before committing our weight.

Wetland behind us.  The surface changes to hard pack earth, a short climb, a steep drop encourages us to stay upright and we exercise caution lest we tumble downwards.  The trail disappears over a blind crest, falling away, up on the pedals, weight over the back, brakes squealing we pick our way down.  I need more light, 900 lumens is not enough, how can that be?

Dark ruins lie, long since abandoned to the ravages of weather, stonework tumbling, overgrown, nature blanketing, enveloping, reclaiming from the industrial revolution.

Trail widening we pedal side by side, easing back on grassy double track, smiles and chatter, we agree that single track night riding is an experience not to be missed.

As the longer nights are upon us we renew our night riding commitment.  Days spent in office staring out at blue skies translates into battery charging, light fitting after work pedalling.

Everything seems so much quicker after the sun goes down, we stop turning off our lights, revelling in the peace and quiet the moment offers, farmhouse lights twinkle through the end of day hours, no streetlights, moon and stars obscured by clouds, only our heavy breathing breaking the silence.

The last section awaits, legs burning, lungs bursting we launch from trail to tarmac and slowly spin back to the van.  the pub beckons but so do our beds.  changing by bike lights, snacking on pasties and rolls, our mud covered bikes and kit litter the back of the van.  A drive home, All in agreement that more must follow.

I'll send an email in the morning!

Oct
26

Yorkshire Tapas

Ah, Spain, this time dry, sunny and hot! Si wanted to take us higher up to start some of the rides but snow was still an issue on the higher slopes. All rides seem to start with the inevitable climb but as ever in these parts the downhill more than makes up for some of the uphill pain, double track, dusty descents give way to steep technical trials riding before mellowing to awesome singletrack

 

Jun
01

What’s the worst that can happen?

A sunny day in the Mendips provides our Saturday entertainment, riding from Sal's soon has us climbing up into the hills before hitting the first of many sections of sweet singletrack.

The dry conditions that have kept us out of our boats have left the trails in perfect condition, I last rode the trail below in the depths of winter, with knee deep mud in sections, having been churned up by horses, with promises of   " this is awesome in the dry"…. you'll have to come back….. for once Driller was right.

From here it was all downhill, steady away singletrack to attack and ride as fast as you can, quality, this is why we ride!

Stevie dropping into the last down before the pub and a few pints of well earned Gem

Next day saw us on the uplift at Cwmdown, as you can see a blue sky day, scorching hot, I'm having a few issues with pictures from this day, so there's only these to show.  I'll try and work with the tame web monkey to resolve but in the meantime if you scroll down you can see just what the worst thing that can happen could actually be….. on a borrowed bike, Stevie is one lucky boy, a few yards later and it would have been liquids through a straw for a few weeks…….

So what has attracted all the interest??

Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you…..

As Stevie pulled on the bars, pedalling the last flat section before 'dropping in,' they just came off in his hand.  Closer examination revealed clean and tarnished sections on the steerer indicating the crack had been there some time, just waiting for an opportune moment to break clean off, the run before this happened saw Driller, Stevie and I pinning it downhill a few bike lengths apart, it could have been real messy.

Which only left us with one more thing to do……

Apr
19

Dry, dusty trails….. it has to be Yorkshire!!

Nidderdale, this ride has been featured a few times in the magazines and is one of the original MBR “killer loops”.  It’s a classic and I would rate it against pretty much any ride you care to mention in the UK and further afield for that matter.  We stayed in the bunkhouse overlooking the Scar House Resevoir Dam.

Building started in the twenties, finishing in 1937, along with Angram resevoir immediatley above, combined they supply most of Bradford’s water.  Lying in the shadow of little Whernside, just outside the boundaries of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, we usually start at Ramsgill, through Lofthouse, Middlesmoor and out onto In Moor.  A steady away climb leads to the fast descent to the Dam, crossing and climbing onto North Moor, following the Nidderdale way before climbing above the shooting lodge and following the double track along the ridge.

Climbing up the Nidderdale way above the Dam

Don’t forget to stop every now and again to take in the huge views that this ride offers.

So we managed to stay off the beer all afternoon, leaving us with the energy to go ride the ridge again as night closed in.

We shortened the night ride, taking the steep grass track from the second shooting lodge, it’s steep and fast down to Thrope Farm before rejoining the Nidderdale Way and popping out onto the road just above Lofthouse, perfect.

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